My ideal day is to upload a photo machine of choice, with a film of your choice, get out, take pictures, come home, develop and scan in the evening.
funny and independent.
Here's how I develop a black and white negative film.
Material:
- detector: Rodinal;
- mounting: Agefix;
- Wetting: AGEPON;
- tank with spiraling 135 or 120;
- measuring cup with 1 ml mark;
- more capable box (500 or 600 ml);
- thermometer;
- scissors
- clothespins.
1. load the film in the tank
This is the only stage where you need the total darkness. If the tank provides for several measures of the spiral is well adjusted even with the lights on the right size for the film you are going to develop, perhaps with a piece of film advanced.
2. Chemical preparations
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php control over the timing and dilution for the development that I intend to do. So to the amount of water in a jug and bring it to temperature (typically 20 ° C). Once up to temperature add the Rodinal (I've used this detector only) water. Fixing and wetting are ready at hand.
3. detector
This bath is used to develop the film. If you follow the wrong time, the negative turn white (photo black) if the time was too long, the negative goes black (white picture) when the time was too short. It's hard to go wrong though.
I start the timer and to the developer in the tank. The first minute I still do inversions, reversals of the force is at the discretion of the development to be achieved. In general, sweet unrest, low-contrast negative, violent shaking, high-contrast negative. After the first minute, do 10 seconds of inversion every minute, until the time indicated by devchart is spent. When 10 seconds to the end, I begin to empty the tank into the toilet.
4. Stop
This bath serves to remove the detector from the negative and then blocking the development.
Empty the tank by the development, fill it with water and stir for one minute. Empty, re-fill and stir for another minute, and empty.
5. Fixing
This bath serves to hold the negative and make it insensitive to light.
Pour into the fixing tank, agitate continuously for the first minute, then 10 seconds every minute, go on for 4 minutes. The amount of fastening is equal to that of water + detector in section 3, not less or risk not cover the whole negative. At the end of four minutes put the fix in the container is can be reused for 10-15 times.
6. Cleaning
This bath is used to wash the negative.
Fill the tank with water, stir for 5 times, empty. Fill with water, shake for 10 times, emptying. Fill with water, shake for 20 times, emptying. This is the method recommended by Ilford, and there are also other methods, but I've never used them.
7. Wetting
This bath I think it is optional but is highly recommended and serves to further clean the negative. The wetting is basically soap and I think that some use the soap kitchen.
Open the tank, the negative is developed set and then the operation can be done safely in the light. Pour a few drops of wetting agent, to get running water and while stirring the spiral so as to create the foam. Leave the negative in the foam tank for a couple of minutes.
8. Drying
Finally, remove the negative from the spiral, hang with the clips in a place protected from dust and taking the negative between two fingers, slide it between them to eliminate the foam. Allow to dry for several hours.
Video Sample
Council the following video to see how to load a roll 135 or 120 in a spiral and to see the process of development. The rollers 120 are loaded entirely in the dark, while the 135 can be threaded into the spiral as now explain.
There once was a sage who gave me some advice useful to load the rollers 135 on the spiral. When you run out of photos and you are going to rewind the negative into the holder using the handle of the camera, be careful not to rewind it completely within its container, so as to leave out a tab with a few inches. Then, start turning the crank, rewind the film, but when you hear "tlack" indicating that the negative is taken from the feed spool, stop. In this way, we should not use that kind of opener you see in the first video to open the film: This should be done in the dark and it is very risky: Some do not have it done (RIP). If an inch of tongue is left out, you can cut the light (as in video) and you can start to slip into the spiral. Those first few inches of film are already impressed so do not lose photos. Here, maybe you do not get caught by the enthusiasm and avoid load on the spiral of the whole film with the light on. Note
real life
I load the film on the spiral in my bathroom, which has no windows. However, the door is not completely sealed, and if we use a little 'too much to load the film on the spiral (and it happens if you stuck in the spiral, cold blood, teeth clenched, tight butt, and sooner or later is released and goes on), I begin to see . Thus in addition to the agitation of a film that does not load, is also shaking shit, there is light, the film has gone down the drain . Here, it happens. If the door is closed and there are no stadium lights pointed at it from the outside or the darkest dark, it is likely that after 5 minutes in the bathroom which is to begin to glimpse the outlines of objects, without thereby disaster.
